31.1.11

The debut: YOUASME/MEASYOU


Mark van Vorstenbos en Twan Janssen is the men behind the label YOUASME/MEASYOU. The label can be described as: gentle, sensual, confident, favorite, at ease, minimal en now. The brand had my curiosity and enthusiasm, because of their innovative way to involve their customers into their ideas and designing process.
Mark is the designer of the collection. Twan is an artist, web designer and works in the background as the art director of the label. I remember the first time that I heard about the label. As a fan of beautiful words and quotes, I immediately fell for the name/names of the brand. At Salon /1, a new platform that unites fashion, art and design on different locations in Amsterdam I saw an installation of about 10 meters long, with on both sides a video screen. In black and white, images were shown and there were sentences spoken; on one side a female voice and on the other side a male voice. They were speaking to each other.....a real dialogue!
I thought this was a beautiful way to present a new brand, that designs for women AND men! This brand really took my attention, even before I had seen any piece of clothing, Brilliant! They have just presented their first collection of designer knitwear and jersey for women and men.  Definitely a brand to keep an eye on!






CULTURE CHANEL AT THE MOCA SHANGHAI

                      
Curated by Jean-Louis Froment, a well-known figure in the contemporary art and design worlds, the new exhibition at Museum of Contemporary Art, Shanghai, highlights the creative dimensions of the House of Chanel throughout history. The exhibition interprets Mademoiselle Chanel’s universe through her designs, her iconic pieces and her literary and artistic inspirations. Delving into her brushes with poets Jean Cocteau and Pierre Reverdy, painters Pablo Picasso and Salvador Dali and composer Igor Stravinsky, 'Culture Chanel' has been developed around five themes: Origin, Abstraction, Invisibility, Liberty and Imaginary. 


This will be an excuse for me to go to Shanghai, but first I have to sort out my tickets for my short  term trips, Norway is coming up soon at the end of february and Paris next week!! So for now It is  only dreaming, maybe this summer! Here some pictures of the exhibition:






28.1.11

Tribal Roya Hesam...



The from Afghanistan originated designer Roya Hesam’s collection, named Te Mana O Te Moana (Spirit of the Ocean) was designed from the vulnerability of women. The show had a very Eastern feeling to it and contained beautiful shades like blues, turquoise and nudes. 

I must say some pieces were styling wise a little bit over the top, but if you look through your eyelashes a very fragile collection shines through. She focuses a lot on the trousers. The patterns she makes are very original and the layering of the fabrics, made the silhouette really stand out. Also the long yarns that she uses on and under her tops, brings definitely some extra drama to the show. 

The belt that is shown in the first frame is so lovely, I would love to have that one! Some of her styling was a little bit too edgy for me, but besides that I very much respect the fact that she stays close to her roots. Here are some of my favorite pieces:




And the winner is...



Yesterday I attended the Green Fashion Competition fashion show, organized by: Amsterdam International Fashion Week (AIFW) and the Dutch ministry of Agriculture, Nature and Food Quality (LNV). It was very exciting to see whom the winner turned out to be. 8 finalists made it to the last round. They handed in a business plan on sustainable fashion and Biodiversity. ‘Bio' means life, and ‘diversity' means variation and showed 2 outfits on the runway. 

Elsien Gringhuis was the winner of this competition. She showed two outfits of silk with a faded out technique. I must say that she was not my favorite. The show opener Winde Rienstra's designs took me by surprise. She used wooden constructions with rope that made a very futuristic silouette. On the other hand, I understand the jury's choice. Elsien Gringhuis did had the most wearable collection, while the pieces of Winde Rienstra were more Couture pieces.

The second price went to OAT shoes. They presented their shoe collection in a very original way, which for sure will give them a fare amount of press coverage. Two almost naked models that only wore the sustainable sneakers of OAT. You can find more on their designs here: www.oatshoes.com. Very pure and minimalistic.

PS. If you look closely on the second last picture on the right you can see me, staring at the camera;) There with my crappy camera, all the photo's I took were VERY bad. I bought a new camera today, and I am in the seventh heaven!







27.1.11

SIS By Spijkers & Spijkers

video

Here a short response on the show from SIS by Spijkers & Spijkers. As I told in my earlier post about SIS the collection was inspired by first aviators and drivers. The muse for this collection is Amelia Earhart, the first female aviator to cross the Atlantic Ocean. Before the show even started, while everyone was still chit- chatting in the room, you could already hear the radio conversations between the real aviators back in the day. The show started with a heavy rock´n roll sound, mixed by Joost van Bellen, wich I thought was great! Loved the music... 
The collection showed a selected range of knitted dresses that made my sister and me (off course to a show, from a label called SIS, I have to bring my own SIS;) drewl. Some of them had prints and others were plain knitted with a sort of cable in them. The knitting looked firm, when you would wear them, it will hug your body, that kind of feeling.
Also the woven dresses with the coloured cloud prints in red and blue, were absolutely gorgeous. The colors came out really beautifull and had nice black ribbon detailing on them. She show ended with a mid length black leather jacket, belted down the waist. We were already wondering were in the future we could buy some of these pieces! It was a great show!







Say Yes to ROPAROSA'S jewelry!

OK, I couldn't help myself as I was looking at the show of ROPAROSA SS11 collection, that the only thing I could look at were the enormous cubistic jewelry. These bracelets and rings are so huge you can knock someone out with them! I don't know were my fascination with kicking and knocking real human beings come from, but what I do know is, THAT I WANT THEM! They look stunning and bold, especially in combination with the orange nail polish, LOVE it!

Futuristic Iris..












Iris Van Herpen’s latest collection is one influenced by the increasing digitalization of the world around us.  The Dutch material wizardess presented her latest collection in Paris.  She doesn't have an official haute couture appellation but I suppose doing it off-schedule in what is a sparse and spread out 'week', is apt for Van Herpen whose work is most definitely NOT ready to wear.  The real intent of Van Herpen is, according to me to continue to research and push the levels of using unusual materials. 

As for the hats, courtesy of hat maestro Stephen Jones, they were made out of technological bits and pieces. Remnants of computers and loud speakers were worn as head pieces, swaying to the sound of modem-like beeps. 
There ornamental garments, as I call them, are architectural and breathtaking on itself, but what I am mostly interested in is the use of 3D printing. Created in collaboration with architect Daniel Widrig and the company MGX by Materialise. The company specialises in creating prototypes for furniture or cars and this is the first time they have engaged with a fashion designer to created these 3D printed pieces that are completely without any seams, requiring no sewing machine or handwork. 
These pieces are generated from a MGX file that renders a design created originally from CAD, printable.  Now I have seen this I am imagining a time when designs could conceivably be PRINTED out to create 3-D garments  Of course the rigidness is a factor that perhaps will change in the future allowing for softer materials to also be 'printed' out making Van Herpen's work here something of a starting point from which further exploration needs to be carried out.

Demi Couture


Yesterday Demi Couture from Jan Taminiau opened Amsterdam Fashion week. The name itself tells you that the dress only needs 1 fitting before you can dance the night away in them. Normally a couture piece needs 3 or more fittings.

I am not sure whether I liked it or not. I mean Jan's style is impeccable, but, I don't really understand the necessarily of making another semi (demi) couture line next to his Haute Couture line. To my opinion the collection looked as if Jan drew the sketches in a hurry. It showed on the runway, that the garments needed a little bit more attention. This is only my opinion; so don't hang me for it.

26.1.11

CHANEL Spring Couture 2011

"Morning dew on spiderwebs" as a lyrical metaphor was the spill of the Spring 2011 Haute Couture Collection of Chanel shown today. Artist Marie Laurencin was lagerfeld's inspiration. In 1923, she designed Les Biches, a ballet commissioned by Diaghilev with a scenario by Cocteau. 

The overall feeling of the collection breathes a lack of heaviness. There is a precise, balletic grace to the shifts, the tops, the fitted jackets, and the floating chiffons. Although it is a Couture collection, I found some really nice pieces in this collection that I would love to wear right away. For example the delicate and sparkled v-neck sweater. It looks luxurious and comfortable at the same time.  Also the beaded t-shirt-like top with the short raglan sleeves worn above an explosion of tule looks elegant and tuff at the same time. The long a-symetrical pied de poule jacket with the rolled up sleeves and the laid back shoulder line looks effortlessly chic.

What stroke me the most of this collection were the sequined leggings and the light washed jeans that opened up at the hemline. I love this detailing of the side seam coming a little bit to the front. Also the trousers look a little bit longer, which gives you a sensual glance of the bare feet. The shoes........ooooh the shoes... I would love to kick someone's ass ( no one in particular)  with this wonderfull dull silver pointy toed shoes!!....Ooops!